Saturday, May 31, 2014

Across the Konya plain to Lakeland!



Saturday, May 31, 2014

Hello!

Beautiful countryside outside of Konya

Lovely ancient stone bridge
We were up this morning at the usual time, but as we had to organize and repack for our move to Egirdir, it took us a bit longer than usual to get downstairs for breakfast.  It was great, as usual!  Really, truly a lovely hotel, and worthy of all the good Tripadvisor reviews.  We were finally on our way a few minutes after 9.  To be honest, it is so hard to believe that Konya has 1,500,000 people, as the traffic is absolutely non-existent!  Quite an easy time getting out of town and heading west to our next stop.

But first, another (yes, another!) Hittite site to find!  And this one was actually fairly easy – with signage and everything!  The site is called Sacred Pool of Eflatun Pinar, and after Yazilikaya (next to Hattusha) it was the second most important religious centre of the Hittites.  It really is quite something – to see these huge carved blocks standing where they have been standing since the 13th century BC, and having the water still course through them and out into the sacred pool. 
Eflatun Pinar!!
The site consists of 19 rectangular stone blocks and on 17 of them are carved reliefs of gods and demons.  On top of the blocks there is one huge sun disk, and right below it are two conjoined sun disks.  Again, we had the place to ourselves – although a local lady did come by with lots of examples of her knitting handiwork!  In front of the pool are three bull protoms standing on a mass of stone.  All in all, it is a very impressive – and even better, easy to find Hittite site!

Fascinating place to visit!
From there, we continued our drive to Egirdir and the ChooChoo Pension!  Absolutely stunning countryside.  I know I keep saying that, but it really, truly is an amazingly beautiful country!  This time we had high mountains on one side, and lake on the other!  While Turkey doesn’t have that many lakes, most of what there are are concentrated here in Lakeland, like the English Lake District.  We drove along the east side of the lake, and got to our next stop about 2 p.m.  Egirdir itself is situated mainly at the base of the lake, and then there is a very slim causeway that leads out into the lake and extends about half a mile long to where we are staying.  Lovely breezes! 
Bull protoms

Oh!  And, while we were driving, we came upon fields of lovely white flowers.  Robert thought at first they were fields of tulips, but when we finally stopped so that he could take a picture, he reported back that yep, those were poppies all right – the opium kind!  Apparently, this part of Turkey is responsible for approximately 25% of the world’s legal production of the stuff!  (We had read that the fields near Afyon, to the north of us, were lovely with the poppies in the spring, and thought we might take a drive up that way tomorrow…but as it is, no need!  They’re fairly common!) 

Really lovely place to stay!  Certainly not up-scale or fancy, but large, airy light-filled bedrooms with nice modern bathrooms. 
Still more beautiful countryside!
Our room, on the third (top) floor, shares a really large balcony with the room next door and looks out on the lake!  We’re very, very pleased!  The owner and his son helped us upstairs with all of our luggage, and we were able to get settled.  Then, downstairs to their very nice restaurant, for some lunch!
Field of poppies!
As Robert says, if we don’t go anywhere tomorrow, that is OK with him, as this is such a lovely place to sit, read and have a glass of wine!  For lunch, I ordered a plate of hummus and a bowl of wonderful tomato soup.  Robert had the soup and a toasted cheese and tomato sandwich, washed down by a nice glass of wine.And after SUCH a strenuous day, we both had lovely naps and now it’s after 6 p.m.  NO idea where the day has gone, but there are some children across the street playing in the water – brrrr…looks WAY too cold to me!  
Poppy closeup!
 

"Our" lake!
There are a couple of options for tomorrow, but it wouldn’t surprise me at all if we never stirred…oh yes, our car is in desperate need of washing
Choo-Choo Pension
(again!), so we may take it into town and see if we can fill it up and get the complimentary car wash…that may be it; who knows?!
Much love,
m
xxx
Pension dining room!

Friday, May 30, 2014

A Return to Catal Huyuk!



Friday, May 30, 2014

Hello!

Well, we decided last night that after having had such a great lunch, we unfortunately weren’t hungry at all – so rather than going out to eat food we didn’t want, we stayed in and went to bed early; always a good idea!

Robert brought his camera down to breakfast, so we now have some photos to share. 
Lovely breakfast room!
I really do love the tiny baked potato; I think that’s my favorite part! 
(We also have REAL orange juice – no Tang in sight!) 

Out of the hotel about 8:30 a.m. and heading toward Cumra and Catal Huyuk (pronounced Chat-L-Hoyek; I just don’t know how to put accent marks in!)  Catal Huyuk is one of the most famous Neolithic sites in the world, and is considered the first real “town” ever – dated to about 7500 BC. 
Think this is signage by the village children!


It was excavated somewhat by an English archeologist in the 1960’s, but he ran afoul of Turkish authorities concerning some artifacts somehow “disappearing” from Turkey. 
Largest site cover; very modern!
Then, about 20 years ago, another English archeologist, this time from Stanford, got permission to reopen the dig, and has been at it every summer since.  He has put together quite a disparate group of scientists – plant people, animal people, human remains specialists – you name it, and one of them will have passed through Catal Huyuk sometime or other.  The site was also designated as a UNSESCO World Heritage Site in 2012. 

In our first visit, two years ago, we first of all had to find it (Sound familiar??) as signage was very much lacking. 
Me inside reconstructed house


Art work from a house on site
However, Robert had pulled up the site on Google Earth, and we were able to recognize the shelters from some distance away.  Now, the signage is fine and takes you all the way to the site!

We pulled up in the parking lot – and there was a TOUR BUS already there!  That was a big surprise!  The rule on-site is that you have to be accompanied by someone in order to walk around the site.  So, we sat down at the guard house to wait, and were joined by a really lovely retired English couple, Tim and Kate.  
The tour group returned (they were German) and we were then escorted to their museum, which we four had to ourselves.  This has improved immeasurably in the past two years; it has been updated greatly, and includes a lot of very useful information!   The archeologists are scheduled to return in June – which starts on Sunday; it would be wonderful to see it in full operation!  Visited the second site, which includes the “deep trench” that was initially investigated just to get to the bottom of the dig, so the archeologists would know what they were dealing with, and how far down they had to go.   Then went over to the little café that the local villagers have set up, for cold drinks and a bit of a rest before heading out again.  
Knife found on site

Large excavation area; house 5
Then up to the first site (this was such a large community that there are multiple digs going on all at the same time) which has a spectacular new cover over it.

Tim and Kate have actually driven their Land Rover from England to Turkey; what an incredible adventure!  They are basically just making up the trip as they go along.  I think we may have convinced them to give Hattusha (Hittite capital) a look; hope they enjoy it!
Red paint on ancient wall

Second excavation site

Deep trench to find the bottom of the excavation
From Catal Huyuk we headed to Can Hasan, another Neolithic community.  However, it was past noon now (we did spent a lot of time at Catal Huyuk) and the winds had sprung up – and the air was just truly dreadful; dust blowing everywhere, and at times we couldn’t even see the mountains!  It was AWFUL!  We got to Can Hasan, and Robert got out to explore a bit, but there really wasn’t much to see.  I stayed in the car, as dust is the LAST thing I need to deal with now!  

Finally got back to the hotel about 3 – and Robert did a fabulous job navigating us right to our hotel door; no problems!  (Konya is a very calm city, that’s for sure.  Could that be because of a lack of alcohol, we ask ourselves.)  

After a bit of a rest, we decided to go out to find dinner early, as we hadn’t eaten lunch and breakfast had been a long time ago!  Both Rough Guide and our hotel recommended a place called Somatci, so after finding a local ATM machine, we looked for the restaurant.  It’s on a really lovely street which seems to be all restored Ottoman houses; just beautiful!

We (again) had the place to ourselves, and picked an indoor room on the ground floor.  (This place makes use of the different rooms in the old house; some cushions on the floor, others with tables; very fun and comfortable!)  To begin with, they do not serve alcohol here, but they greeted us with something called Sirkencubin in lovely glasses.  Very interesting; appears to be a mixture of grape vinegar, honey and water!  Who knew?!  It was good!  

Lovely restaurant!

Dining room decoration!
Grape vinegar, honey & water!

Eggplant on left, stuff artichoke on right
For starters, Robert ordered an artichoke stuffed with cheese and spinach, and I ordered their fried eggplant dish, which came with bread.  We split the appetizers between us, and enjoyed them very much.  Then, for main courses, R ordered Tava Kebabi, and I ordered Fistikli Kayisili Tavuk Sarmasi.  Now, aren’t you glad you asked??  Robert’s meal was beef chucks in a brown gravy-like sauce, served in a clay pot.  It was superb!  I ordered chicken (yes, again…) breast stuffed with apricot and nuts; not as good as R’s beef dish!  He won that round!  Then, when we were all finished with that, two lovely small glasses of rose water with honey were presented to us – which was fabulous!  All in all, an excellent meal for approximately $35 US!
Robert's beef dish

My chicken stuffed with apricots and nuts

Then, back to the hotel for the night.  I’ll be heading to bed very soon!  Tomorrow we head to Egirdir, which is on the second largest freshwater lake in Turkey.  R greatly looking forward to fish!  I’m not!
Lots of love,
m
xxx

Thursday, May 29, 2014

A very relaxing day!



Thursday, May 29, 2014

Hello!

Up this morning around the usual time – 6 or so, after a very peaceful night!  In fact, we had both thought about being awakened by the first call-to-prayer, but we must have slept right through it! (which, being SO close to a mosque, isn’t that easy!)  Down to breakfast at 7.  Absolutely stunning breakfast room, on the basement level of the house.  (R forgot his camera, so will take and post pictures of lovely breakfast and breakfast room tomorrow!)  The ceiling reminded us of English cottages, with all the beams and white paint.  Whoever did the renovation in this house REALLY knew what they were about!  Instead of the traditional breakfast buffet, we received a large tray with lots of small dishes on it.  There was a container of olives, another of wonderful cherry tomatoes, another of cheese, another of raisins and dried apricots.  But the best surprise of all was a REAL baked potato, cut in half with cheese!  Wow, did that taste good! 
 
With the really good map provided by the hotel, we had planned to first check out the local archeological museum (surprise!).  Today is going to be our “city” day, and tomorrow we’re heading out in search of archeological sites!  One guidebook said they opened at 8, and a second that they opened at 8:30, so we (of course) were there at 8:25 – only to find out that the place didn’t REALLY open up until 9!  Shucks!! 

Finally a good picture of a wedding shop!
There wasn’t anywhere in the immediate area that we saw to get something to drink, so we walked up the street to Alaaddin Park, the official “city center.”  We had been talking about the possibility of sending a box of “stuff” (books, souvenirs, etc.) home to help lighten the luggage load.  (We have often done that from France, England or Germany, through the post office; very convenient!)  This time, however, we were not sure about the Turkish post, so decided to find the local Fedex office and get a price. 
Tram around the park
At the park, we got tramway tickets, and headed out toward one of the local neighborhoods where the Fedex office was supposed to be.  Lovely system; we always enjoy taking local transportation!  Got off nearby, but weren’t able to find the right street.  Finally, we found a taksi cab and he was able to drop us the mile or so away right in front of the office.  Well…not only did they not have any 10k or 20k boxes, the price to send 10 kilos of stuff would be something like 600 TL – around $280 US!!!  Whew!  My reaction to that was, we can buy an extra suitcase if we have to, and pay to check it, and it won’t cost NEARLY that!  So…scratch Fedex!  (It’s not that we have that much stuff, but we do have a lot of paper and books…)

So, cabbed back to the museum, and it was now about 9:45 a.m. – and there was a school group in the museum! 
Hittite Bathub

A baby rattle!
We didn’t even have to walk in the door, as we could hear them from the ticket booth!  It was amazing how much noise they were making!  So, we sat in the lovely rose garden for a bit, and then decided to take yet another detour back to Alaaddin Park for something to drink. 
Human hands painted on wall - chalcolithic

Chalcolithic vase with animals
This time, we found a fresh juice vendor – and got two huge glasses of orange juice for 7TL!  They were GREAT.  Fresh juice is SUCH a better idea than Coke, that’s for sure!  Then, a return trip to the museum – three tries, you know!  This time, it was SO deserted that the guard had to come and open the door and turn on the lights for us! 
 
The museum was okay.  It was again, very old-fashioned, but they had a lovely collection of sarcophagi, and two wonderful rooms with finds from Catal Hoyuk (where we’re heading tomorrow) and some of the other Neolithic sites in the neighborhood.  My very favorite thing (other than another Hittite bathtub!) was a wall painting that had been carefully preserved and showed two human hands done in red paint!  Amazing!! 

We walked back to the hotel along the main street, as I had finally come to the conclusion that what I have been suffering from is DUST, because it is an awfully dusty area! 
Gotta love those jewelry store windows...
My throat and my eyes have been really having a rough time – and I had narrowed it down to either dust or smoke, or a combination of the two.  But as we walked around the city, it became really obvious that dust (my all-time worst allergy other than dust mites…) was everywhere!!  So, back to the room and into the shower I went for a good scrubdown.  Whew!!  Felt really, really good!  (Because of dermatitis issues, I’m an every-other-day kind of shower girl, but boy, in this area, even daily might not be enough!)  

So, greatly refreshed we headed out again to find some lunch.  Followed a recommendation in Lonely Planet, and just a couple of blocks away was Darma, which was recommended for their kebaps. We got a lovely table upstairs, and sat down to dine!  Robert had their Iskender kebap; I had their Pilic kebap.  This time, I think I won! 
Robert's Iskender kabap

My roasted chicken kebap
Robert’s Iskender kebap was a donor kebap (the huge slowly turning pile of meat that is chopped off for giro sandwiches) with a very good barbeque-type sauce, and a vat of yogurt.  He loved the kebap, but wasn’t interested in the yogurt!  My chicken (yes, yet again!) this time was roasted, and it was wonderful; the best chicken I think I’ve had here!  It came with a pile of raw sliced onions spiced with sumac, and a roasted tomato, two green peppers and a serving of rice pilaf.  Fabulous!  Then back to the hotel for much-needed naps … from which R still hasn’t awakened!

We’ve decided to visit the Mevlana Museum later this afternoon, to avoid some of the crowds (which we can see from our windows!)  I realized this morning that I hadn’t really explained too much about Konya, other than that it was a religious center!

Our new friends; really cuties!
Well, it turns out that Konya was the adopted home of the Mevlana, Celaleddin Rumi. 
Greeting at entrance to museum

Mevlana museum in the background
And, while that might not tell you anything at all, think Whirling Dervish, and you’ve got their founder!  He was known as a Sufi mystic, and his writings helped reshape Islamic thought and modified the popular Islamic culture of Turkey.  Many Turks make pilgrimages to Konya to visit his shrine, and it is reputed to be a place of inspiration to many.  At any rate, the entire city is chock full of Whirling Dervishes in many different forms – models, badges, trays, plates – if you can think it, you can probably put a whirling dervish on it!  I will stop now and report more on our visit when we return!

Back from the Mevlana Museum. 
Flutes used in ceremony

Stringed instruments
(Short trip, as we can see it from our room!)  Well, it was interesting.  The mausoleum where the Mevlana and (male) family members are buried is under a lovely turquoise dome.  The only issue is that you have to put little plastic booties on over your shoes (to protect the parquet floor), with the result that it feels like walking on an iceskating rink!  Very slippery!  Also, of course, no photographs.  After we were through with the mausoleum, we toured the various cells around the courtyard.  They have various items in them, including the musical instruments that accompany the dancing, the lighting during the ceremonies, clothing worn by the dervishes, etc.  Very interesting, and there were some really lovely illuminated manuscripts – the script work is truly incredible. 
Part of the garden; lovely roses!

Our hotel from garden; our room on left in blue!


Also, we ran into our young friends again!  After we had checked in yesterday, we were taking a walk of exploration, and were approached by 5 or 6 young girls (teens; maybe 15-16?), one of whom wanted to know if she could practice some English on us, and ask us a few questions.  We of course agreed.  She asked us our names, occupations, how we were, were we enjoying Turkey, what did we think of the people, what did we think of the food, etc.  Then, they all took our picture on their cell phones.  Only took a few minutes, and then of course when we parted, there was lots of giggling…As Robert said afterwards, we really missed our chance to take a good photo.  So, today when they came up to say HI, I told them we wanted their picture, if that was okay.  So, photo attached; they were such cuties!  And of course, lots and lots of giggling…

So, back to the hotel and now the blog.  We had such a big lunch that I’m not sure I’m going to want much for dinner … maybe a bowl of okra soup?  Also, R checking to see where our laundry has got to…it went out this morning, and is supposed to be back “today.”  Hmmm…
Lots of love,
m
xxx

Oh!  One thing that I wanted to mention is the interesting way things are spelled here.  Sometimes we can’t understand a word, but if we actually sound it out, voila! There it is!  We’ve started collecting some of them to share…so, dijital, fotokopi, groseri store, seramic, and finans.