Monday, June 9, 2014

A nice, sunny day in Bodrum



Monday, June 9, 2014

Hello!

Temple of Zeus at Euromos

A very quiet night here in Bodrum.  It turns out that while our hotel is entered off a busy side street, you wind around a bit before coming to the actual location.  And, while the occasional rooster crows in the morning, nothing else is really heard at all!  Definitely a nice place!  The breakfast here isn’t really up to normal Turkish standards, which is surprising, although they do have real orange juice, which is nice.  R says the coffee is terrible!


Out about 9 for a trip into the local mountains in search of several ruins.  Our first stop, about an hour’s drive away, was Euromos and their impressive Corinthian Temple of Zeus – built by the Carians and then supposedly requisitioned by Hadrian.  It was really quite lovely, and quite a bit was still standing.  Much less was their theatre, a short distance away.  

Not much left to their theatre!


From there, we decided to find Labranda, listed in the Rough Guide as “arguably the most beautifully located, and least visited, archeological zone of ancient Caria.”  I never can resist a challenge!  However, this almost did it, as when we initially followed the signs, they truly wound us around in a very large circle, right back where we’d come from.  So, decided to keep on following one of the very narrow roads heading up the hill that, for some reason we could not see, had an incredible parade of semi-trailers running in both directions.  At times, it was like driving next to a freight train. 
View from Labranda

Definitely a remote site!
What in the world were they hauling?  Eventually, some kilometers later, voila, Labranda!  It must have been the same guide book that actually brought four other people here at the same time!  R wonders how many visitors they receive per month.  SO much more fun having sites all to ourselves.  The flies at this site were really obnoxious – we almost felt like we were back in OZ!  But Labranda was really well worth the trip.  It started in the Chalcolithic time (early Bronze Age) with a shrine at a spring that is still flowing!  It was later expanded by other cultures: Karians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines.  Wandered over the site admiring the stones as well as the view.  

As it was after noon, we decided to head back to Bodrum to get lunch.  Very nice drive along the coastline, but wow, there are some truly amazing resorts around here – all built with huge entrance gates and private security – they look like one would never have to leave; what a sad way to see Turkey!


One of the natural springs in the area!
Back to the hotel – and still as difficult to get to the parking lot as it was yesterday.  I just love turning left at the “no left turn” arrow with a slash through it…then down into town for some lunch.

We found a little sidewalk place where I was able to get a cheeseburger and French fries, and Robert had a pepperoni, cheese and tomato “toast” with fries.  Actually not at all bad, surprisingly! 
R's "toast" and chips!

My cheeseburger and chips!
Then we walked along the marina looking at restaurants – we may eat here at the hotel tonight, as nothing terribly impressive!  Then bank and finally, back up the street to Su Hotel.  We were both ready for the COLD pool by the time we got back; it’s just really nice to cool off!  Then inside for naps…a very lovely day!  Definitely more pictures than prose!

Tomorrow, we are off to Selcuk and the Hotel Nyla, where we stayed two years ago.  Very much looking forward to seeing how things have changed, as well as getting a second look at Ephesus!
More later!
m
xxx

Sunday, June 8, 2014

Back to Turkey Once Again!



Sunday, June 8, 2014

Hello from Bodrum, Turkey – which means we successfully made it back! 


So…dinner last night first, as it was wonderful!  In looking at the Tripadvisor recommendations, I noticed that Nisos, the restaurant directly next to our hotel, was very highly recommended – for Greek, Italian and Fish. 
Sauteed mushrooms with garlic

Yummy aubergine salad with feta
So, as R is ever on the lookout for good seafood, we went there about 7:45 p.m.  Were greeted like long lost family members, and quickly seated at a table for two on a corner.  (Note:  We asked for NO SMOKING, and were shown the table…we felt like we were back in Switzerland, when there would be one non-smoking table – usually in the middle of the room, completely surrounded by smokers wherever you looked.  Be that as it may, there was a nice breeze, and we thought we could manage.  And we did.  As soon as we were seated, a waiter came by with a small tray with green olives on it on one side, and salt crystals on the other; SO nice to see such great and quick service!  As our waiter came to take our order, we found that he had just returned in February from 2½ years in the U.S. – two months of which were spent at Lake Havasu City, AZ!  Very small world indeed!  

R's local fish with veggies

My spaghetti bolognaise
Wonderful cake and ice cream!
I ordered an aubergine salad to start, with spaghetti bolognaise to follow.  Robert ordered mushrooms sautéed with garlic to start, and Tsipoura, a local bream, to follow.  We split the two appetizers – they were both really excellent, and then R got this HUGE platter with his BIG (½ kilo)fish on it, along with roasted carrots, potatoes and broccoli.  Have to admit that I wasn’t able to finish my large portion of spaghetti, but R did well with his fish; very impressive, considering that by the time he had boned it thoroughly, I was about finished with my pasta!  Then, out of the blue, came a dessert plate with pieces of “momma’s cake” on it – delicious nut and coconut cake with scoops of really wonderful chocolate and vanilla ice creams, all drizzled with chocolate sauce.  Then, they plopped a container with both a bottle of lemoncello and a bottle of a cappuccino liqueur.  All on the house!  I’m not sure I’ve ever had lemoncello before, but it was really good, and a great way to end a meal!  And, while I know we were going to walk around the city, I was really ready for bed by 10 p.m.!

We were up around 5:30 a.m. this morning, as we wanted to make sure we were NOT the last ones on the ferry this time.  Our wonderful hotel manager told us that they wouldn’t even be open yet, but that didn’t matter to either of us.  So, down to check-out at 7 a.m. and he had a cab there immediately. 
Saying Goodby to Rodos was hard!

Another picture from the ferry boat of Rodos harbor
Well, he was right … the actual check-in booth opens at 8 a.m. but that didn’t matter to us.  We were first to get our boarding passes, first to open the passport control, and first to get on-board.  This was a different ship that last Thursday, and the seats were in groupings of four or six with a table in between.  We found seats near the exit area, and sat down to wait.

Ship was scheduled at sale at 9, but of course people were still being processed; I’d estimate we actually got off around 9:10 a.m. which isn’t too bad, all things considered!  Also, we were NO WHERE near full, which was SO much nicer than our journey to Rodos.  The sea was so calm that we decided to eschew the motion sickness pills, and that worked out fine.  I think I fell asleep for a bit, because when I woke up, we were back in Turkish waters, and heading toward the cruise port in Marmaris.  We breezed through passport control, and voila, back in Turkey once again!  Retrieved our rental car from the secure parking area, and were off and heading toward Bodrum a little after 11 a.m.

Now…the road to Bodrum. 
Driving from Marmaris to Bodrum

Spectacular scenery and beautiful beaches!
Not sure exactly how Emmy is set, but believe me, she took us on some very strange roads!  Some of them were truly beautiful, following along the cliffs next to the sea.  But there was one stretch of about 11 or 12 km where the entire road seemed to be washed out, in places almost entirely!  It was AWFUL, and I had to take it at literally a snail’s pace.  We were originally scheduled to arrive at 1:15 p.m. but actually didn’t make it until after 2 p.m.

Drove into Bodrum and found, of course, a tangle of little one-way streets, making it very difficult to find our hotel!  Finally got close, and I pushed R out of the car and started to drive away.  Then it occurred to me that I might never be able to find him again, so I made an illegal left turn, and parked illegally in front of someone’s gate.  By the time I walked back to the hotel, R was coming my way with a nice man with a hand cart. 
And it just kept getting better!
We off-loaded the luggage, and then R pushed the handcart to the hotel, and the nice man put the car somewhere close…hopefully…Got to Su Hotel, and it is really quite lovely!  We are in room 13 on the ground floor, with a lovely patio and pool outside.  No TV, but as we haven’t been able to get anything worth watching for some time now, that is absolutely not a problem!  

As tomorrow is Monday, we needed to see the Bodrum Underwater Museum today – of course.  The Mausoleum (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient world) is just down the street – also closed on Monday, but we figure we can do that on Tuesday morning before we leave.  So, into town we walked.  It’s not really far – maybe 10 minutes?  But it is warm out, and I was hungry.  

As we were driving over the awful road, and I was trying my best to avoid holes big enough to bury a Volkswagen, I made up my mind that I was not yet ready to return to Turkish food – and if there was a McDonald’s in town, that was going to be my reward…and there was, and we did…  Then, around the corner and up to the Bodrum castle (Built originally by the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, same group that built the big castle in Rodos.), which also houses the Museum of Underwater Archeology.
Bodrum Castle walls looking out over sea

Egyptian amphorae brought up from wreck

Toured the castle/museum from top almost to bottom – neither of us were at all interested in seeing the dungeons, actually.  The views were spectacular, as were the breezes.  Very enjoyable, but I would rate the museum a B; R would grade it just a tad higher.  At any rate, it turns out that both the University of Pennsylvania and Texas A & M have departments of underwater archeology – who knew?!  And the museum holds the artifacts and remains of several ships located locally – one of which was from the 13th century BC!  Just fascinating seeing the inventory of what it contained, as well as the actual physical remains that were discovered.Having never thought of underwater archeology as a life’s pursuit, it opens up entire new vistas into career choices!  (Except not for me, as my ears won’t clear under 30 feet, and these wrecks were generally discovered somewhere in the 100 m depth.)
Sphinx

Love that O.J.!
Stunning mosaic floor

Well-built Knights castle!
 

Having covered the museum fairly well, we retired to the museum courtyard where we enjoyed two glasses of – guess what? – fresh-squeezed orange juice!  Lovely!  Then headed back to the hotel and the pool.  It was lovely and cold – but very, very refreshing!  Then sat by the pool with glasses of white wine – truly, this is the life!  As R was saying, he has reached the trip “turn around” point – the point when you know the journey is shortly going to be over, and you now start thinking about home.  I’m not there yet, although there are very few Hittite remains in this area; possibly the Izmir museum.  At any rate, we’re in Bodrum tonight and tomorrow night, before moving on to Selcuk, near Ephesus. Dinner here tonight at the hotel. Not sure what we’ll do tomorrow – we were thinking about possibly going out on a boat, but we’ll have to see!!
Stunning COLD pool!
 
More later!
Su Hotel!

Comfortable and colorful!

Just finished a lovely dinner here at the hotel.  We ordered some mezze to start – a cold potato salad with carrots and peas, and a very spicy tomato/pepper combination on bread; both excellent. 
Hotel restaurant

Excellent appetizers
Then, we both ordered their steaks – and they were FABULOUS!  We ordered them “rare” and there was actually some pink inside!  They were great!  I had mine with Danish blue cheese sauce, and R had an interesting mushroom sauce on his.  Then, we received a free dessert (this is becoming quite fun!) – Baklava with mint ice cream…didn’t remember about photos until it was way too late!  At any rate, dinner here was great!
m
xxx

Addendum from Robert:

Well, with one week left on our trip, I’d like to add my observations of the expedition.

First and foremost, let me say just how wonderfully everything has gone.  This, of course, is the direct result of Margaret’s research and planning, something she has been working on for about two years!  Reading about the archaeology of Turkey, locating sites to visit, studying hotel ratings, car reservations, ferry reservations, air reservations, etc. etc.  She can absorb so much information without having been to a place, something I can’t do; I need to see things first-hand to get a feel for the situation.

Yes, planning pays but, still, the plan was not rigid; she left plenty of room for improvising as we go, so we never felt locked into things.  We could (and did) make adjustments as circumstances offered.

It should be known, too, the Margaret has done essentially all of the driving on this trip.  All I have to do is navigate, enjoy the scenery and try (alas, not always successfully) to keep us on the right road.
In sum, I have the best travel agent/guide ever! 
R's steak with mushroom sauce

My steak with blue cheese sauce!
And I really do appreciate it.  Thanks very much, Margie!

Robert
Note little friend on wall!

Saturday, June 7, 2014

A lazy Day in Rodos!



Saturday, June 7, 2014

Good morning!

I’m actually starting this blog in the morning, so I can write about dinner last night, which was FABULOUS!  I looked at Tripadvisor, and fairly high on their list of recommended restaurants was “Saffron” which is INDIAN.  (Coincidentally, we have a restaurant in Tucson with the same name!)  We headed over there about 7 p.m. (a short 10 minute or so walk) and were able to get a table indoors (AWAY from smoking, hopefully!) 

Vegetable pakoras

Vegetable samosas
Well…the first thing that differed from our meal in Marmaris is that we had WONDERFUL service, and then, that the food actually came on a timely basis!  They started us with pappadum (made in the restaurant) with a mint sauce and a cherry chutney – both very good.  That was followed by our “usual” – vegetable pakora and vegetable samosa.  Well…the plate for the vegetable pakora was HUGE, with three different kinds of vegetables!  There was so much that we were only able to eat about half of it – but they very kindly wrapped the remainder up for us to take away.  Then we got our chicken tikka and our prawn khorma along with our saffron rice pilaf and garlic na’an…Oh, my…we have NEVER ever had chicken of any sort that was this moist and tender – it was incredible; really, and perfectly spiced.  The prawn khorma was also excellent, just not as well spiced – but the waitress did tell us that when we ordered. 
Prawn khorma

The BEST chicken tikka EVER!
All in all, we SO enjoyed our meal.  

The owner came around to talk with us, and he is a very interesting man.  Born in Rodos, but his father was an engineer who moved the family around (mostly the Middle East – Kuwait, Sudan, etc.) depending on where he was working.  They were able to get out of Tehran just a few days before the takeover of the American Embassy (which was a block away!) and his family still owns property there that they are trying to get back and then sell.  He spent several years in the U.S. – found Orange County CA too busy, but very much enjoyed the year+ he spent in San Antonio, TX.  His wife is Japanese, and after living in Japan for some years, he returned to Rodos and opened the restaurant several years ago.  His son will graduate this year from Japanese University and he and his wife will join him and their daughter in Rodos.  Our waitress was his daughter, and she speaks perfect English, Japanese and Farsi – and is working on her Greek.  Truly an international family!  

In spite of being stuffed with wonderful and exotic Indian food, we were able to waddle back to the apartment.  Our goals for today are as follows:  1) Turn in the last load of laundry!! 2) wander around the perimeter of the old city walls, 3) Get a good nap, because 4) I want to see the walls and old town all lit up at night!  So!  That’s it for now!  I will let you know how I do on my “goals!”

We went out about 8:30 a.m. and dropped off our laundry. (Note here about our shower.  It is TINY and built around a small circle in the corner of the bathroom, with a curtain that pulls around the circle…unfortunately, there is SO little room that if you need to do anything at all, some part of you will be pushed against the shower curtain; most uncomfortable!)  From there, we headed for the old town.  As I promised myself a day of ice cream, we stopped at a vendor in the park for an ice cream cone of stracciatella (my favorite; vanilla with chocolate bits).  However, we only got a few steps when my first lick literally knocked the ice cream scoop to the pavement!  Oh dear!  So, cleaned up that mess and returned, this time for TWO scoops, hopefully of which I could deal with…and I did!  
The ice cream cone that I managed to eat!

Art gallery in an ancient building in old town


We entered the old city near the harbor gate and it was really quite nice, being so early; very few other tourists around, and the shop keepers were just opening their stores.  We found an open Photo Store, where R got a new flash drive (as the one he brought with us is now stuffed full of all the photos we’ve taken!).  We really just wandered from gate to gate, which was quite lovely, but as it was getting really warm in the sun, we finally decided to head back to the hotel.  Picked up the laundry, then back for a rest before lunch…

We returned to I (heart) Salad Bar for repeats of both of our Thursday salads – R getting pasta salad and me making my own masterpiece with green beans, peas, yellow cheese cubes, potatoes and croutons; excellent! 
Look what I found!!!
Temple of Aphrodite

Lovely square within the walls
I was also able to find a close ice cream vendor for another ice cream cone of stracciatella … very nice!  Then back to the hotel for our rest AFTER lunch (being obviously different than the rest before lunch, you see…)

The only other big event today will be dinner, and I am determined to find something Italian.  Tripadvisor lists Nicsos, just a few steps along our street as one of the best restaurants in town, serving Greek, Italian and Seafood…I’m thinking that may be a plan.  Then, of course, an evening wander back around the harbor and old town, (with perhaps even more ice cream!) so we can see it all lit up! 
Fun exploring little streets!

Lovely fountain!
Other than that, I’ve just got to organize for an early departure tomorrow.  (The ferry boat leaves at 9 a.m. and I am DETERMINED that we are NOT going to be last in line again!!)  Fortunately, as of now, the Mediterranean is MUCH calmer than it has been, but we’re still going to take our motion sickness medication tomorrow; MUCH better safe than sorry!

Lots of love,
m
xxx