A Return to Catal Huyuk!

Friday, May 30, 2014

Hello!

Well, we decided last night that after having had such a great lunch, we unfortunately weren’t hungry at all – so rather than going out to eat food we didn’t want, we stayed in and went to bed early; always a good idea!

Robert brought his camera down to breakfast, so we now have some photos to share. 

Lovely breakfast room!

I really do love the tiny baked potato; I think that’s my favorite part! 

(We also have REAL orange juice – no Tang in sight!) 

Out of the hotel about 8:30 a.m. and heading toward Cumra and Catal Huyuk (pronounced Chat-L-Hoyek; I just don’t know how to put accent marks in!)  Catal Huyuk is one of the most famous Neolithic sites in the world, and is considered the first real “town” ever – dated to about 7500 BC. 

Think this is signage by the village children!

It was excavated somewhat by an English archeologist in the 1960’s, but he ran afoul of Turkish authorities concerning some artifacts somehow “disappearing” from Turkey. 

Largest site cover; very modern!

Then, about 20 years ago, another English archeologist, this time from Stanford, got permission to reopen the dig, and has been at it every summer since.  He has put together quite a disparate group of scientists – plant people, animal people, human remains specialists – you name it, and one of them will have passed through Catal Huyuk sometime or other.  The site was also designated as a UNSESCO World Heritage Site in 2012. 

In our first visit, two years ago, we first of all had to find it (Sound familiar??) as signage was very much lacking. 

Me inside reconstructed house

Art work from a house on site

However, Robert had pulled up the site on Google Earth, and we were able to recognize the shelters from some distance away.  Now, the signage is fine and takes you all the way to the site!

We pulled up in the parking lot – and there was a TOUR BUS already there!  That was a big surprise!  The rule on-site is that you have to be accompanied by someone in order to walk around the site.  So, we sat down at the guard house to wait, and were joined by a really lovely retired English couple, Tim and Kate.  

The tour group returned (they were German) and we were then escorted to their museum, which we four had to ourselves.  This has improved immeasurably in the past two years; it has been updated greatly, and includes a lot of very useful information!   The archeologists are scheduled to return in June – which starts on Sunday; it would be wonderful to see it in full operation!  Visited the second site, which includes the “deep trench” that was initially investigated just to get to the bottom of the dig, so the archeologists would know what they were dealing with, and how far down they had to go.   Then went over to the little café that the local villagers have set up, for cold drinks and a bit of a rest before heading out again.  

Knife found on site

Large excavation area; house 5

Then up to the first site (this was such a large community that there are multiple digs going on all at the same time) which has a spectacular new cover over it.

Tim and Kate have actually driven their Land Rover from England to Turkey; what an incredible adventure!  They are basically just making up the trip as they go along.  I think we may have convinced them to give Hattusha (Hittite capital) a look; hope they enjoy it!

Red paint on ancient wall

Second excavation site

Deep trench to find the bottom of the excavation

From Catal Huyuk we headed to Can Hasan, another Neolithic community.  However, it was past noon now (we did spent a lot of time at Catal Huyuk) and the winds had sprung up – and the air was just truly dreadful; dust blowing everywhere, and at times we couldn’t even see the mountains!  It was AWFUL!  We got to Can Hasan, and Robert got out to explore a bit, but there really wasn’t much to see.  I stayed in the car, as dust is the LAST thing I need to deal with now!  

Finally got back to the hotel about 3 – and Robert did a fabulous job navigating us right to our hotel door; no problems!  (Konya is a very calm city, that’s for sure.  Could that be because of a lack of alcohol, we ask ourselves.)  

After a bit of a rest, we decided to go out to find dinner early, as we hadn’t eaten lunch and breakfast had been a long time ago!  Both Rough Guide and our hotel recommended a place called Somatci, so after finding a local ATM machine, we looked for the restaurant.  It’s on a really lovely street which seems to be all restored Ottoman houses; just beautiful!

We (again) had the place to ourselves, and picked an indoor room on the ground floor.  (This place makes use of the different rooms in the old house; some cushions on the floor, others with tables; very fun and comfortable!)  To begin with, they do not serve alcohol here, but they greeted us with something called Sirkencubin in lovely glasses.  Very interesting; appears to be a mixture of grape vinegar, honey and water!  Who knew?!  It was good!  

Lovely restaurant!

Dining room decoration!

Grape vinegar, honey & water!

Eggplant on left, stuff artichoke on right

For starters, Robert ordered an artichoke stuffed with cheese and spinach, and I ordered their fried eggplant dish, which came with bread.  We split the appetizers between us, and enjoyed them very much.  Then, for main courses, R ordered Tava Kebabi, and I ordered Fistikli Kayisili Tavuk Sarmasi.  Now, aren’t you glad you asked??  Robert’s meal was beef chucks in a brown gravy-like sauce, served in a clay pot.  It was superb!  I ordered chicken (yes, again…) breast stuffed with apricot and nuts; not as good as R’s beef dish!  He won that round!  Then, when we were all finished with that, two lovely small glasses of rose water with honey were presented to us – which was fabulous!  All in all, an excellent meal for approximately $35 US!

Robert's beef dish

My chicken stuffed with apricots and nuts

Then, back to the hotel for the night.  I’ll be heading to bed very soon!  Tomorrow we head to Egirdir, which is on the second largest freshwater lake in Turkey.  R greatly looking forward to fish!  I’m not!

Lots of love,

m

xxx